Praises Resound for the Wines, Harvest Approaching

Buongiorno ~

The few weeks since our last report have seen numerous positive comments on our wines, while the growing season has continued to present the vineyard with distinct weather challenges, although nothing we haven’t faced in several of our most successful vintages. I greet you now from a table at Palladio Restaurant, to cite the latest compliments in the media, and to focus on our progress in the present growing season. The “new good news” from a diverse range of critics might present no surprises, but is notable for where it comes from — a very respected American culinary journal, Food & Wine; a popular online observer of American culture in general, Slate;and the distinguished culinary academy in Paris, Le Cordon Bleu.The full range of comment coming our way lately, originates exactly where evaluation belongs – at the table.

In June, Food & Wine’s Executive Wine Editor, Ray Isle, presented an ingenious and lively travelogue through American viticulture, as The History of American Wine in 25 Bottles.He correctly identifies our founding year, 1976, as the date when this vineyard already started to exert an exemplary regional influence, bringing European viticulture almost alone to Virginia, as a significant commitment by a 6th-generation producer, headquartered in Italy. We were delighted that he chose our most popular and awarded wine for the season, Vermentino Reserve 2024, to validate his finding that “the best Virginia wines are excellent, and winemaker Luca Paschina has proved that over and over again in his 36 years at the helm.”

In Slate,the widely published beverage authority, N.C. Stevens noted Thomas Jefferson’s influence in promoting Virginia winegrowing, in an installment of his jaunty series, One Nation Under Booze. He concluded, as The New York Times’ Washington editor R.W. Apple, Jr did in 2000, that Jefferson’s wish for fine Virginia wine has been fulfilled at this estate — especially with our 1998 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, winner of the Virginia Governor’s Cup in 2007. What is new in Mr Stevens’ Toast America the Way Thomas Jefferson Intended report, 25 years later, is his observation of how varietally diverse the region’s roster of successful wines now is. He is correct to emphasize Nebbiolo (planted here 1995) and Vermentino (2009) as two especially conspicuous varietal contributions to Virginia’s international recognition.(In London 2016, above, presenting our Nebbiolo at Heston Blumenthal). We would add, in aid of this upbeat assessment of Virginia’s varietal distinction, 3 blended wines achieving the same respect, at least – Octagon, Nascent, and Paxxito.

Chronologically the most recent, and certainly the most inventive perspective on the vitality of our wine region, comes literally from a classroom exercise, “Old Wine, New Roots,” at the elite Le Cordon Bleu academy in Paris. This study adopted the form of a blind tasting comparison of selected Virginia wines of established stature, with their counterparts from France, all from estates of comparable production volume and varietal focus. Assembling 24 wines, in 4 flights comprised of 6 wines each – 3 from Bordeaux, 3 from Virginia – the tasting was meant to recall, but not to imitate the legendary “Judgment of Paris” tasting, which pitted wines of Napa Valley against prestigious French comparisons. It was conducted under the watchful eye of the critic who directs judging for the Virginia Governor’s Cup, Frank Morgan, whose influential blog, Drink What You Like, draws a wide readership beyond Virginia.

On this occasion, the setting favored stimulating a learning conversation, populated by wine professionals as well as culinary students. They focused on Chardonnay, Petit Manseng, Cabernet Franc, and Bordeaux Red blends. Virginia wines outpointed the highest-ranking wine from France in every category, with all 3 of Virginia’s entries in Petit Manseng and Bordeaux blends filling the top 3 places in their flight. Among the Virginia selections, those from our immediate viticultural area predominated in the rankings. Octagon 2021 stood alone in drawing a perfect score of 20 Points out of 20, awarded by the Jury Chair at this tasting, Xavier Thuizat, voted Best Sommelier at France’s annual Sommelier competition of 2022, now Chef Sommelier at Paris’ historic Hôtel de Crillon, custodian of one of the most priceless cellars in the world – Superb! One of the best I have ever tasted. Everything is perfectly balanced! No compliment could better reward our continuing commitment to food-friendly winemaking.

Now, all eyes turn to these final days of July in this growing season, to assess where we stand, no more than 5 weeks from inception of the harvest. Given recurring “heat dome” intervals of above-average temperatures, punctuated only rarely by rain greater than 1/4 inch per occasion, our vegetation is much less lush than you know it sometimes can be, as in the 2025 vintage. Compared with last year, when we conducted 4 passes of vine edging before harvest, we have needed to conduct only 1 this year. Correspondingly, the plant’s berry, itself, is uniformly developing to a smaller volume than in rainier seasons, which nevertheless will lead to excellent intensity of color and flavors, yet with lower average production per varietal. In these final days of July, our whites are developing broadly along these lines, with the reds just beginning to exhibit the color we know to expect hereafter.

Keep a good thought, and come for a glimpse of the vineyards when you can, in these all-important days.

Cordialmente ~

Luca Paschina Winemaker