The Great Frost: Historic Challenge & Alert Mitigation

Buongiorno ~

If news of our new ownership, and our 50th Anniversary on April 6th had not claimed priority of timing in our reports to you, the widely ruinous frost of April 21st would have come front and center last month. Yet that would have been too early for an accurate assessment. Today, I can submit a matured report of the frost’s effect on our growing season, given productive crop rescue efforts conducted by our vineyard staff with viticulturist Fernando Franco’s leadership. I thank the many who have expressed concern.

The famously wide variations in Virginia’s range of late Winter temperatures were on full display this year – at both ends of the mercury range. A lengthy spell of extreme cold in January and February, reaching a record low of 4º F, could turn a pre-dawn walk by the Ruins into a trek on deep ice. This was followed by a noticeably warmer than average March, accelerating budbreak on our vines unprecedentedly early, by March 23.
April 21st saw sustained colder temperatures, than I have ever observed for this date in my 35 years at Barboursville, in the range of 24 to 31º. Very sadly, for many farmers and viticulturists in our region the frost will be remembered for devastating damage. Using all of our emergency defensive means against frost – including windmills and portable heaters – we watched as almost all of our lower-lying vineyards lost up to 75 percent of the tender young clusters. Losses were especially acute in Pinot Grigio, Moscato, to a lesser extent in Viognier, and lesser still in limited sites of Cabernet Franc. Initially, we assessed losses of approximately 40 percent of this year’s crop, measured by acreage alone.
Before continuing, I should remind us all, severe as such losses are, they do arrive upon the heels of 3 straight harvests here, of abundant, superlative quality, based on optimal yield, volume, and grape quality. A great reserve of these vintages is safely in bottle, or nearly so. We project presenting fine wines to meet all foreseeable demand, without loss of favorites to any of our followers. Moreover, all of the constituents of Octagon, all of Nebbiolo, all of Sauvignon Blanc, Fiano, and Vermentino were unscathed, because occupying advantageous slopes at higher elevations.

There was also a silver lining in this Winter’s especially cold interval in January — the suppression this year of an invasive population of Spotted Lantern Fly and lesser non-native pests, with several days in single digits terminating the life of egg masses laid here last Fall.

But there has been a human deliverance from the extremes of our first estimate of losses from this frost, arising from the concentration and skill of our longtime vineyard manager. In 2015, Vineyard & Winery Management named Fernando Franco among North America’s 20 most admired grapegrowers, and this winter’s adversity more than proves their point. We observed that some of the buds not fully developed by April 21st have emerged and are carrying crop. Some shoots suffered only partial damage – to young growth at the tip – while at their base the same shoots have started pushing new growth but no clusters. But grape vines are structured with secondary buds, able to produce new clusters if the primary bud is damaged.

We discovered much healthy secondary bud presence in vines where the primary buds were damaged. Therefore, to induce vigorous growth in those secondary buds, Fernando directed his team of vine growers to cut away the damaged primary buds, to divert all growth energy to the secondaries. The photograph above shows where a damaged primary shoot has been cut away, with the secondary now presenting a healthy new cluster. The exact effect he expected has now taken place: we have begun seeing a probable gain in some vineyard blocks we had rated as totally lost, of as much as 15%. This will mean harvesting such vines twice — clusters which fully survived the frost will be harvested as many as 3 to 4 weeks before secondary clusters on their own timetable on the vine. And when these saints go marching in, we’ll rejoice for all of their number.

SUMMER SUPER-GREAT NEWS
I am happy to announce a $2.00 discount per bottle in our online wine shop, of any number of these 4 seasonally favorite wines — from today through July 7th. Naturally, our standard case discounts and free or discounted shipping offers still apply.

Palladio Restaurant launches the Summer Menu tomorrow, the 17th, with every course depicting the dazzling facets of this most exuberant season. Reserve now for your best date(s). (540) 832 – 7848.
Our neighboring theatre company, the Four County Players bring Shakespeare back to the lawn of our historic Ruins, for a festive production of Much Ado About Nothing, July 17th through August 1st. A Summer tradition here since the early ’90s, with a great theatre company. Book tickets for your favorite date, and plan to enjoy a Picnic prepared by Palladio Restaurant by prior reservation. For picnic information, please e-mail, [email protected]

Our annual Summer Supper Somm Tomato Celebration Dinner is set for Friday, August 7th at 7:00pm – a 4-Course feast by Palladio Chef Michael Clough – playing our part in statewide celebrations led by Village Garden Farms in Mechanicsville, paired with 5 of the Tomato’s favorite wines – Allegrante Rosé, Barbera Reserve, and Philéo, with the Main Course of Soft-Shell Crab presenting the new vintages of two of our most beautiful, Nascent 2021 and Cabernet Franc Reserve 2025. Reserve (540) 832 – 7848.

Plan ahead to reserve Sunday, August 23rd, at 1:00pm, for Chef Michael Clough’s annual Cabernet Franc Reserve Feastat Palladio Restaurant. Our celebration will present 3 superior vintages of this favorite single varietal, including the very rare Goodlow Vineyard release of 2021, with a splendidly iconic Filet Mignon. Reserve (540) 832 – 7848.

Cordialmente ~

Luca Paschina Winemaker